Visit to Kashmir valley

On 11th


Left Delhi at 2:30pm. Arrived Srinagar at 4:30pm. Reached Police guest house at about 5pm. Walked along the Dal Lake for about an hour. The half of the walk was stifling as the air was much polluted due to the number of vehicles being driven on the road along the lake. Pollution appears to be dominating the exquisite greenery, the mountains and poplar trees. Not many tourists. Mostly local crowd of lower middle class. Did not see any foreign tourists. Noted the following passages in course of browsing through the papers and magazines in the plane:
1. "Billionaire businessmen and a huge middle-class are a historical novelty for India. This simultaneously makes India a land of opportunity, a land of corruption." ~ Ashutosh Varshney in IE, p. 10, 11-06-12
2. "Calling team Anna anti-national is to circle back to the same debased discourse they started." ~ IE, editorial, p. 10 , 11-06-12
3. "I absolutely love travelling.as it snot only destresses me, but also helps me to connect well with my inner self" ~ Nandita Das, Film actress
We are travelling a lot.these days.I don't know if we are getting destressed. In fact we find ourselves getting more involved in mundane things which cause stress in life invariably.
Retired to sleep at 11pm.  





On 12th

Reached Gulmarg at about 12:30pm. We were lodged in the Police Mess. Fairly comfortable accommodation. Took Gondola (rope-way) to snow capped mountains at  a height of about 14,000 feet. Sledged to the line of control of the Indo-Pak border. We could see our post called Sarso at a distance. We were told that there was a frozen lake beyond the hills over 2.5 Km away, which was source of water to India and Pakistan through quite a few rivulets. It is beautiful to see. Quite a few trek to it. The sledge pullers told that mortars fired by the Pak Army during Kargiil war fell down into Gulmarg valley. There were a number of people, men, women, old and young, playing, sledging, lying, relaxing, throwing snowballs at each other. We paid Rs. 1000 to the 2 sledge pullers and Rs 350 to the boy for rubber boots and sticks to walk on the snow. It was due to the help of the SHO Gulmarg, that we could get tickets for Gondola and visit the snow capped mountains. We took a drive through the Gulmarg town, saw golf course, children's park, Shiva Temple (famous Hindi film song - Jai Shiv Shankar of late 50s starring Mumtaz and Rajesh Khanna- was screened here). Botapathri (a good view point) and Maharaja Palace (could not see it as it was closed for maintenance). The guide told us that the palace had beautiful wooden carvings on its walls and ceilings. From outside it looked like an ordinary house built by Maharaja Hari Singh for summer stay. From any place in the Gulmarg town, you find yourself in a valley surrounded by snow capped mountains and lush greenery. The place is not so well kept. It is comparable to the snow capped mountains of Switzerland, but you dont see greenery there as you see in Gulmarg, along with snow. The road to Gulmarg from Srinagar is tolerable. It has potholes, particularly from the foothills to the Gulmarg Town. It took us 2.5 hours to reach Gulmarg from Srinagar. On the way it was blocked by agitating people of nearby villages for non-supply of adequate power. It was opened after halh an hour. We were told there were a number of bears in the forests. You rarely see tigers and other animals. We saw a few birds. The crows are big and could be dangerous. On way to Botapathri, a view point, over 10 Km from Gulmarg through dense forest  we saw a Nano car fallen in the ditch. On inquiry, we found that the 2 Kashmiri women and the driver had gone to nearby hutments (where shepherds live with their flock of sheep) to buy some fowl, leaving the car in neutral gear. It crawled down to the ditch and overturned. The 2 Kashmiri women were amused to see their Nano in the ditch due to the folly of the driver. The Police officers hut, as the mess is called, is quiet comfortable. It provides hot running water, electrically heated bed and good food. The entire structure is made of Kairu, Budlu wood and  its floor is laminated . It has Reechh and Bhaalu of the bear family. It is said they suck the blood of their prey and do not touch the flesh. You also can see deer on top of the hills, wild horse, goats etc too.
Meaning of word Gulmarg is flower valley. Here the residents don't sow the seeds of flowers. They automatically come out of the soil. In fauna, eagles are also seen sometimes.
Retired to sleep at 11pm.


On 13th

Reached Pahalgam at about 4:30pm. Near Pahalgam, we saw young men/women rafting on Liddre river. Felt like joining them. Venita reminded me of my age. I restrained myself. Had she not been with me, I would have rafted with young people. There was of course good chance of being swept away by the turbulent current of Liddre river in case of losing balance as I do not know swimming.  We were lodged in Tarsar House, fairly good room with an annexe where 2 more person could live. On way to Pahalgam,  visited Shere Bagh Nagbal Raghunath and Martand Temples. At both the places, there are Gurdwaras also side by sise. These are maintained by Hindus and Sikhs . On way, saw Kesar Belt. Martand Temple (Sun) is called Mutton Devi Temple by the local people. All fall in Anant Nag District. Liddre river passes through Pahalgam and meets Jhelum in Anantnag. Chenab flows in Jammu, Jhelum in Kashmir and Sindhu in Laddakh Valley.There is a cave known as Shiv Khori in Jammu, which is said to connect Jammu with Pahalgam. There is a Shiv Ling in the cave. Water in drops falls on it from the roof. The distance between Srinagar and Gulmarg is 55Km. Pahalgam is 152 Km from Gulmarg. Sangam is the place on way where cricket bats are made and supplied all over the world. These bats are made of Safeda wood. Mufti Md Saeed lives in Anant Nag . 
I had some pain in my waist. The attendant had placed electrically heated blanket on the mattress of the bed. He had put the heat at high level. I woke up about mid-night and found the bed very hot. Had to switch it off .. The heat ,however, had taken away the pain of my waist  when I woke up in the morning next day. 
Retired to sleep at 10:30 pm.



On 14th
We shifted to Sheshnag Cottage. It was quite comfortable.Visited Chandanbari, 20 Km from Pahalgam, gateway to Amarnath Yatra, which is to begin from 25th June. You can see the mountain range of Amarnath Shrine from here. The foothills are snow capped. Walked on them upto height of  200 feet. Was tempted to sledge. But avoided. A number of people were sledging on the snow. On way back, came to Betab Valley, about 6 Km from Pahalgam. It is maintained by J & K tourism. The river Liddre flows through it. Saw hordes of people visiting it. Visited Aru Valley, 12 Km from Pahalgam. The locale is beautiful. Road is not so good.
Retired to sleep at 11:00pm.

On 15th  

After spending 2 nights and 3 days, we left Pahalgam at about 3:15pm. Visited Mumbleshwar temple (Shiva) of 11th-12th Century,  in the outskirts of Pahalgam. It is a protected monument. In  Kesar Belt, at Pumpore, we bought some dry fruits and Kesar. Venita saw Badam and Akhrot trees. Reached Srinagar at about 6:15pm.
Retired to sleep at 10:30pm.











On 16th 
Visited CRPF MI room. Venita took some medicine for stomach pain. Sarika Devi Temple in Hari Parvat is a serene place. Spent some time there and did pooja. The Devi manifested herself in the form of a huge rock. It is visited by Kashmiri Pandits. During pooja , they stick petals of flowers on the rock which is painted orange. The Aarti is also done in the usual manner. The temple management offered cinnamon tea. Thereafter, we visited Jeshta Devi temple. This is also managed and visited mostly by Kashmiri Pandits. Here, the Devi is in the form of an idol as we see the images of Hindu gods and goddesses in other temples. It is also located on a hillock full of trees. Nishat Gardens are blooming.  There were a number of visitors. Some children were bathing in the waterfall of the gardens.
Retired to sleep at 10:30 pm.

On 17th
Called on Shri K.Rajendra Kumar, the DGP J&K at Srinagar. Spent an hour with him. Visited Durgana and Hanuman temples.Took off from the airport at about 5.10 pm. Arrived Delhi at 6.15 pm.Retired to sleep at 11 pm.